Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    2009 Categories

    Entries in quince (3)

    Wednesday
    28Oct2009

    Selected readings on everything from A to Q

    In the cocktail party that I'm hosting in my head, I serve cider and Calvados along with canapés of quince paste and Spanish cheese (probably Mahón curado).

    * * *

    Michael Pollan's book "The Botany of Desire" — highly recommended reading for anyone interested in apples — is now a two-hour PBS program. It's airing tonight.

    * * *

    From the archives of The Atlantic magazine comes an article about apples by Corby Kummer. (Hat-tip to Jessica for the link.):

    People travel from remote wooded parts of Maine (which is to say most of it), the state where [John] Bunker has lived for 40 years, to present him with orphan apples from trees on their property. Like found pets, the neglected trees seem to beg for adoption. Someone once planted and pruned them, and taught succeeding generations how to tend them. But then a link was broken, and the apple lost its name. Now visitors line up at country fairs to ask Bunker the name of their apple, and in the winter months boxes come in the mail bearing more mystery apples from all over the Northeast, for a total of 300 apple challenges a year.

    * * *

    In this brief New Yorker piece by Lizzie Widdicombe, a few apple trees give their life for art:

    [Jennifer] Rubell, who is thirty-nine, was in her car, driving to the North Fork of Long Island to pick out a critical part of the dessert course: three large apple trees, which will be chopped down, brought to the gallery, and laid out on the floor, so that guests can eat fruit from the branches. Rubell acknowledged that some people might find it disturbing to eat fruit from a chopped-down apple tree.

    * * *

    God, I must be, like, one of the worst fruit bloggers. Fortunately, because of the narrow niche I occupy, I can also tell myself that I am one of the best fruit bloggers. Now you know what's written on my bathroom mirror. Wait. Not that whole thing. Just the last part. Anyway, I write two posts about quince without explaining what the hell a quince is. I am willing to bet that the average reader of this blog (perhaps a contradiction in terms, I concede) already knows what a quince is, but I don't want anyone left behind.

    Fortunately, David Karp is, like, one of the best fruit detectives. In this piece for the LA Times, he spells out the past and present of the quince.

    I don't want to give anything away (spoiler: I'm about to give something away), but DAVID KARP GETS A QUINCE NAMED AFTER HIM and he is so bad-ass that he just tosses that off tangentially.

    If I ever get a fruit named after me, you are never hearing the end of it.

    Friday
    23Oct2009

    Quince II: Dulce de membrillo

    Can I tell you a funny story? 

    When I was in college, I lived in Spain for a year. Spain is a snout-to-tail country and I was more or less a vegetarian (at the time, more; in succeeding years, less). The markets were full of things I would have rather had for pets than for dinner.

    Probably about twice a week I would see membrillo, a wobbly, pink brick locked in plastic and sold for cheap. God only knows what part of the pig that was.

    Or wasn't.

    It was quince paste. At some point I realized that but, not knowing exactly what a quince was anyway, it didn't mean much to me. And then I had some quince paste. And it was good (certainly better than the other paste that springs to mind: tooth). Even so, for quite a while, quince paste was to quince as Fig Newtons were to figs — a recognizable product of something I wouldn't recognize fresh.

    Oh, that funny story? Sorry. That was it. It didn't really have a punch line. 

    I feel pretty bad about that.

    I've been thinking about Spain a lot lately, and when the quince showed up at the market, I flashed to dulce de membrillo.

    Working with food can be utterly transformative, almost alchemic. A sticky mound of dough turns crispy and crusty. Sweet apple cider turns dry and bubbly. Fruit and sugar turn spreadable and shelf-stable.

    Bitter, rock-hard, cream-colored quince turn sweet, wobbly and rosy orange.

    The recipe in Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors" called for a pressure cooker. Pressure cooker?! I've got three jobs, a freelance career and a fruit blog. My whole life is a pressure cooker.

    In the end, I didn't follow a recipe. I chopped up the quince, cooked them until soft in a bit of water on medium heat, put them through the food mill and added sugar. (Most recipes I've seen call for equal parts sugar and quince. I added about half that.)

    When the quince paste seized up on the stove top, I took a tip from this blog and finished it off in a very low oven, in a square pan lined with buttered parchment paper.

    I have to say: It tastes exactly as I remember it.

    Thursday
    22Oct2009

    Quince

    "You can have some quince if you'd like."

    "I can? Thanks, Peter!"

    "I thought that would make you happy."

    "And you're not going to mock me for it later?"

    "How could I mock you for taking quince?"

    "I don't know. It just seems like something you would mock me about later."

    "I'm not going to mock you."

    Time will tell. At least I have my quince.

    They were pretty much grown without human intervention. I know they look like they've been beaten with an ugly stick.

    Mado picked some up. Lula took some. The Publican claimed some. Kendall College took some. I took some. And a woman picked out the gnarliest-looking ones to use at a Halloween dinner.

    That was it. The quince harvest this year was two bushels. They were gone before 10 am. 

    You can't eat them raw and they're still sitting on my counter.

    This won't be the last you hear of them.

    * * *

    I finished giving the man his change and he asked me a question: "Are you involved in growing the fruit?"

    "Eh, not terribly."

    From behind me I heard Peter say: "He just blogs about it."

    * * *

    She was picking through the Northern Spy apples, having spent quite a few minutes hovering over the Bosc pears. 

    She was going to pay good money. I respect getting what you want to get. But, it has to be said, she was rejecting some perfectly good apples.

    "Is this one all right?" She held up an apple. 

    I nodded. Most of them were all right. But I was saying nothing. It's often the best policy. Then she spoke.

    "Sorry I'm so annoying. You must think I'm the pickiest customer at the market today."

    Well. I only work at one fruit stand. So I'm not in a position to say.

    * * *

    If you found this blog through Time Out Chicago, welcome.

    Peter runs the show. Lupe's the backbone of the operation. I have a fruit blog.

    Twitter. RSS. Facebook.

    I think that's all you need to know.