Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    2009 Categories

    Entries in lincoln square market (8)

    Thursday
    01Oct2009

    Apples and sympathy, but mostly apples

    That's smoked wild salmon on a baguette with thinly sliced Valstar apple. I drizzled it with olive oil.

    * * * 

    "There's this one woman who comes all the time and tells me about her whole family."

    This was my co-worker talking to Peter.

    Peter's response?

    "Send 'em to Dan."

    "Because she comes all the time and she just won't stop."

    "Yeah, send 'em to Dan."

    "That's what I've started doing at the Lincoln Square market. Sometimes I'll just send them to Dan."

    "Yeah. People with long stories? Weird medical problems? Send 'em to Dan. Those sound like 'Dan Specials' to me."

    Thanks, Peter. 

    This has come up before.

    I think he was joking.

    But it would certainly explain a lot.

    * * * 

    "HOW MUCH APPLES?"

    "Those are five dollars."

    "WHY FIVE DOLLARS?"

    "Why five dollars?" I shrugged. "Because that's what the apples cost."

    He didn't stick his tongue out at me. (That happened the next day. Hey, thanks for keeping it classy, lady!)

    But back to the man.

    A customer was watching this with a slight smirk and a look of disbelief.

    "Do you get that all day?"

    "I do."

    "I go to a lot of farmers markets," he said. "And it's way worse at this one. Everybody wants to haggle over everything! I see it all the time."

    "I know . . . it's true. It's not just you; it is way worse at this one."

    He gave me some sympathy and bought some Mutsu apples. 

    I gave him his change — and a bonus Valstar apple.

    The Valstar is my favorite apple at the moment — crunchy, juicy and sweet, but with a brightness to it that rescues it from being cloying.

    * * * 

    "Are you cold?" The chef had a jacket on. I was in a sweatshirt.

    "Eh, I'm all right," I told her. "It was worse yesterday."

    "Wow. Nothing bothers you does it?"

    "Excuse me?"

    "Nothing bothers you. You're always so nonchalant."

    "Um ..."

    My name is Dan.

    Have we met?

    Wednesday
    23Sep2009

    There is time to try a lot of apples

    "When I was a little girl, I picked these for like three hours when we were on vacation at the lake."

    "I took them to my mom, who was smoking with the other moms — because that's what they did in those days."

    "And she and the other moms just sat there smoking and eating them."

    "Like it was nothing?"

    "Like it was nothing."

    There was a matter-of-fact melancholy about the way she told the story.

    But she seemed pleased to find the fraises des bois.

    * * *

    "So, you know those two melons you've got in your hands? We don't know what they are. They're mystery melons."

    "Yes, well. I know what they are."

    "You do? Really?"

    "Yes."

    "Well, great. Then you're a few steps ahead of us."

    * * * 

    It would be good if people let go of the notion that there is only one apple that will satisfy them — one ideal apple for their sauce, one ideal apple for their pie, one ideal apple for their snack. 

    I see people starting to crack under the pressure — wracked with indecision when faced with so many apples — and I desperately want them to be OK.

    Well. I want me to be OK, too. And it's closely related.

    At any rate, I swear to you: It's going to be OK.

    Apple season is a solid two months, at least. There is time to try a lot of apples.

    It's never enough time, I'll grant you.

    But there is time.

    * * * 

    That's a Melrouge in the photograph at the top of this post. It's a cross between [shudder!] a Red Delicious and [squeal!] a Jonathan.

    I scored it off another orchard.

    Wednesday
    09Sep2009

    Deep-fried peaches

    "Excuse me, do you remember which melon I bought last week?"

    No.

    I really, really don't.

    * * * 

    "Hello!"

    "Do you work here? Or are you just being friendly?"

    "Well. I'm wearing a fruit-stained T-shirt that says sweet."

    "That doesn't have to mean anything. I don't like to assume."

    "Fair enough. But, for the record, I'm not that friendly when I'm not working here."

    * * * 

    Let me be absolutely clear: Deep-fried peaches are not the sort of afternoon snack that I would be making if I did not have a fruit blog. Because it requires planning at least three hours ahead, then later stirring vigorously for 10 solid minutes, then later whipping egg whites, then finally heating a pot of oil to 360 degrees. Oh, and purchasing a bottle of brandy — which if it seemed like a questionable idea beforehand, certainly seemed less questionable after all that.

    At any rate, it's not the sort of afternoon snack I would be making if I didn't have a fruit blog.

    But I have a fruit blog. 

    So I made the deep-fried peaches in between making lightly sweetened peach preserves, spiced peach butter, peach preserves . . . and an unholy mess. 

    You can find the recipe for deep-fried peaches here in the New York Times archives.

    The recipe was suggested to me by a customer. 

    Talking about cooking with customers is one of the best parts of my job.

    I ate my deep-fried peach with a dollop of spiced peach butter on top.

    Tuesday
    08Sep2009

    "So . . . tomorrow at 8 o'clock?"

    Rosy-fingered dawn tickles my whiskers and I sigh contentedly. I feel more rested than —

    Wait.

    Yesterday was Monday.

    Today is Tuesday.

    OH FUCKITY FUCK FUCK FUCK I AM LATE FOR THE MARKET.

    I didn't know how late. But the sunlight peaking through my blinds was a very bad sign.

    Really, it's not surprising that one day I should fail to get up at 4.15am. If anything, it's more surprising that this is the first workday in four years that I have failed to do so.

    Of course, there are those days that I don't work when I pop out of bed at 4.15.

    Why couldn't today have been one of those days?

    When I got to the market at 6.30, some of the other vendors gave me good-natured grief.

    At the end of the market, I saw Peter.

    "So . . . tomorrow at 8 o'clock?" I asked him with a smirk.

    He looked at me. "I wasn't going to say anything."

    He didn't have to.

    I felt bad enough.

    Friday
    28Aug2009

    Can I ask you to do something for me, Dan?

    "Hello, can I have some peaches?"

    "Would you like the $3 pint or the $5 quart?"

    "How about a $3 pint."

    "Sounds good."

    "What was your name again?"

    "I'm Dan."

    "Dan, I'm Nick." He reached out his hand. I shook it, firmly but reluctantly.

    "Can I ask you to do something for me, Dan?"

    "Yes. . . ."

    "Dan, can you pick out some really good peaches for me? Can you pick out the peaches that you would bring home to your family and friends?"

    "Well . . ." I paused. "I mean, usually, I just bring them home the bruised ones."

    I checked to make sure his peaches weren't bruised and placed them gently in the bag, just as I try to do for everyone — whether you introduce yourself, shake my hand, or wink at me.

    Did I mention he winked at me?

    He winked at me.

    Twice.