Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    2009 Categories

    Entries in cider (5)

    Monday
    26Oct2009

    Hard cider made easy, Part III (or The Attenuated Joy of Home Brewing)

    I'm writing this post against the backdrop of the steady, cheerful gurgle of the airlock on my bucket of pear cider, the latest hard cider undertaking.

    Glurp glurp!

    The yeast are consuming the sugar in the juice, leaving behind carbon dioxide and alcohol. The carbon dioxide escapes through the one-way valve on the top of the sealed fermentation vessel, each time with a tiny burst of bubbles.

    As I said: Glurp glurp.

    Let me tell you that if making hard cider is not completely idiot proof, it is at least highly idiot-resistant.

    A few days ago, my friend and I bottled the first batch. I could easily have botched the transfer from the secondary fermentation bucket into the bottling carboy when I let go of the siphon tube and watched cider shoot out onto the floor.

    I could have easily botched the bottling when I discovered that the bottling tip on loan from a friend did not fit the tubing that I had purchased, or when I failed to research the question of how much head space we should leave in the bottle. (I left my friend standing with the tube in the bucket while I fetched "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing." Complete must refer to the contents of the book, rather than modifying Joy. My friend yelled after me as I ran up the stairs: "Don't think this hasn't happened before!" She's a brewing project veteran.)

    When I transferred the cider into the bottling container, I added honey to foster some sparkle in the final product.

    Of course, we also tasted some. It was surprisingly dry, with barely any hint of sweetness. There was a slight effervescence. It's pretty good for a first effort.

    It's sitting in bottles downstairs. 

    It's better you not ask about the second batch, which I attempted to transfer into a secondary fermentation vessel yesterday. Unlocking the lid, I was smacked by the unmistakable acridity of apple cider vinegar. 

    Oops!

    Maybe the airlock was faulty. Maybe — and I find the thought fairly horrifying and quite embarrassing — I failed to sanitize everything properly at the outset.

    Either way, the bacteria that turn alcohol into acetic acid — which is what gives vinegar its bite — gave me several gallons of apple cider vinegar.

    As I said: Oops.

    The batch in question was a repeat of the first batch — same cider, same yeast. So the idea of experimenting with different yeasts and juices hasn't been dealt a setback. There's still another batch of apple cider with a different yeast (Lalvin 71B). And now then there's this pear cider with the Côte des Blancs yeast.

    Meanwhile, you'll notice I went all out on labels for the first batch.

    That reminds me. I have to label the vinegar.

    Friday
    16Oct2009

    Hard cider made easy, Part II

    So everyone now knows where to go if the supermarket aisles are suddenly cleared of preserves.

    As it turns out, I'm not done.

    I have a Spiced Beer Jelly that I need to make. And while I was flipping through Mes Confitures to get to that recipe, I found the Pumpkin with Caramelized Lemon recipe. And then the Banana, Orange and Chocolate recipe. And then the Orange and Chocolate recipe.

    Sigh.

    * * *

    When we press our apples for cider, we're left with nothing but the solids. They are shot out the back of the mill and land in this trailer, which is hauled away by a man who feeds it to his beefalo.

    * * *

    The hard cider is coming along nicely, thank you. I have my first batch clarifying in a second fermenter. I don't really care if it's crystal clear or not, so I'm thinking I'll bottle that Monday to move things along. That's when I'll transfer the second batch to the carboy to clarify. In the first two batches, I used straight apple cider and Côte des Blancs yeast from Red Star. In this third batch, I'm using 90% apple cider and 10% pear cider, with Lalvin 71B yeast.

    Some of you have asked how my cider is coming along, and so that update was for you. 

    On the other hand, for a lot of you that paragraph was yawn-inducing gibberish.

    So, I'm introducing you to one of the orchard's new residents and serving this cider post with a kitten chaser. 

    Monday
    28Sep2009

    Hard cider made easy, Part I

    The good news is that I have loosened the grip of my canning obsession. I have done this, of course, by finding a replacement obsession.

    Yes, I realize that this is nixing the urge to bite my nails by taking up cigarettes, thank you.

    The bad news is that I don't know that I could have found a hobby that is less photogenic, at least in its early stages.

    Plastic buckets of mud-brown liquid aren't exactly the recipe to keep page-views rolling in by the dozens.

    At any rate, think about jam. How much jam would I normally consume in the course of a year, were it not for the warren of jars crammed into my pantry? The answer is next to none. Of course, when the jam is not just jam — when it's a story and a memory and a place — that's different. But I can count on one hand the number of times I've purchased jam at the supermarket. And there is a limit to how much jam I can consume.

    Now consider hard cider. If having limitless access to fruit to turn into jam is appealing, think about how much more appealing limitless access to juice to turn into booze would be — or, I should say, is.

    Why it took me this long to make hard cider is beyond me.

    Before we get into this, I want to make clear what I hope to prove with this project: Any idiot can do this. Because, really, I'm nothing if not any idiot.

    Once you read this article by Nathan Poell on making hard cider, you will know exactly as much as I do. On the third page of the article, there's a list of supplies needed. I will be upfront: You probably don't have some of these things on hand. You will probably need to purchase a food-grade plastic bucket or two, a bit of plastic tubing, an airlock and some yeast. All of this — except the yeast — is a one-time expense and can be reused. The yeast is a consumable, but costs less than a dollar. When the time comes, you'll need some bottles, too.

    If you don't have a local homebrew supply store, check out Midwest Homebrewing Supplies, a company with which I have no affiliation other than being a satisfied customer.

    Oh. You will also need to buy some cider. Peter will not appreciate it if you just run off with five gallons of his. As it was, he looked at me a little funny when I took mine home — before he nodded and gave a little shrug.

    One last thing:

    I got an email the other day (regarding the availability of pawpaws) from a reader who said: "I am so tempted to take up canning after reading you ..." 

    I'm sorry: So tempted?

    I write eleventy million posts and tweets on canning and you were tempted?

    (The interlocutor in question also addressed me as "O, wise slinger of fruit," which, strictly speaking, is not necessary to draw an email reply out of me, although you can see where it wouldn't hurt.)

    I mention all this because I have visions of organizing a bottle exchange — or at the very least a tasting.

    This is a bit ambitious, I'll admit.

    And I don't know if it would work.

    But it only could work if you join me in making some hard cider.

    Wednesday
    23Sep2009

    There is time to try a lot of apples

    "When I was a little girl, I picked these for like three hours when we were on vacation at the lake."

    "I took them to my mom, who was smoking with the other moms — because that's what they did in those days."

    "And she and the other moms just sat there smoking and eating them."

    "Like it was nothing?"

    "Like it was nothing."

    There was a matter-of-fact melancholy about the way she told the story.

    But she seemed pleased to find the fraises des bois.

    * * *

    "So, you know those two melons you've got in your hands? We don't know what they are. They're mystery melons."

    "Yes, well. I know what they are."

    "You do? Really?"

    "Yes."

    "Well, great. Then you're a few steps ahead of us."

    * * * 

    It would be good if people let go of the notion that there is only one apple that will satisfy them — one ideal apple for their sauce, one ideal apple for their pie, one ideal apple for their snack. 

    I see people starting to crack under the pressure — wracked with indecision when faced with so many apples — and I desperately want them to be OK.

    Well. I want me to be OK, too. And it's closely related.

    At any rate, I swear to you: It's going to be OK.

    Apple season is a solid two months, at least. There is time to try a lot of apples.

    It's never enough time, I'll grant you.

    But there is time.

    * * * 

    That's a Melrouge in the photograph at the top of this post. It's a cross between [shudder!] a Red Delicious and [squeal!] a Jonathan.

    I scored it off another orchard.

    Monday
    14Sep2009

    Mutsu apple fries

    Saturday was the first market for our Mutsu apples — enormous and green, with crisp, tart-sweet flesh.

    I cut into one for a customer and took a slice for myself.

    Starchy. Not "potato" starchy. Not a terrible apple. But a bit starchy.

    Apples start out starchy and sweeten as they hang on the tree.

    Probably these Mutsus could have stood to spend a little bit longer on the tree.

    I told Peter. 

    "Well, we didn't pick many," he said. "We just spot-picked some." In other words: No cause for alarm; it will take care of itself very shortly.

    Meanwhile, he said: "If they're a little starchy, maybe they would work for fries."

    I took a few Mutsus home and fried them up. I blotted the apple slices dry first.

    When you fry potatoes, it's good to do a first fry to cook the potatoes through, and then a second fry to crisp and brown them. 

    But that's because no one wants to eat a raw potato. Apples — even slightly starchy ones — aren't like that.

    Some of the slices I threw in the hot oil as is. Others I dusted with cornstarch first. The cornstarch-coated slices fared better.

    If I left the slices in for long enough, they took on a beautiful golden brown but turned too soft inside. Frying them until just blond was better. The outside was crispy; the inside was soft but still had some integrity.

    If I had given it any thought, I would have served them with . . . maybe olive oil and salt. Or maybe butter and sugar. I'm not sure.

    In any case, I didn't give it much thought. I ran downstairs with the plate, offered a fry to each of my friends, and started scheming about making hard cider.