Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    • Epitaph for a Peach: Four Seasons on My Family Farm
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    • The New Best Recipe: All-New Edition
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    • The Fannie Farmer Cookbook: Anniversary
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    2009 Categories

    Entries in apples (15)

    Wednesday
    28Oct2009

    Selected readings on everything from A to Q

    In the cocktail party that I'm hosting in my head, I serve cider and Calvados along with canapés of quince paste and Spanish cheese (probably Mahón curado).

    * * *

    Michael Pollan's book "The Botany of Desire" — highly recommended reading for anyone interested in apples — is now a two-hour PBS program. It's airing tonight.

    * * *

    From the archives of The Atlantic magazine comes an article about apples by Corby Kummer. (Hat-tip to Jessica for the link.):

    People travel from remote wooded parts of Maine (which is to say most of it), the state where [John] Bunker has lived for 40 years, to present him with orphan apples from trees on their property. Like found pets, the neglected trees seem to beg for adoption. Someone once planted and pruned them, and taught succeeding generations how to tend them. But then a link was broken, and the apple lost its name. Now visitors line up at country fairs to ask Bunker the name of their apple, and in the winter months boxes come in the mail bearing more mystery apples from all over the Northeast, for a total of 300 apple challenges a year.

    * * *

    In this brief New Yorker piece by Lizzie Widdicombe, a few apple trees give their life for art:

    [Jennifer] Rubell, who is thirty-nine, was in her car, driving to the North Fork of Long Island to pick out a critical part of the dessert course: three large apple trees, which will be chopped down, brought to the gallery, and laid out on the floor, so that guests can eat fruit from the branches. Rubell acknowledged that some people might find it disturbing to eat fruit from a chopped-down apple tree.

    * * *

    God, I must be, like, one of the worst fruit bloggers. Fortunately, because of the narrow niche I occupy, I can also tell myself that I am one of the best fruit bloggers. Now you know what's written on my bathroom mirror. Wait. Not that whole thing. Just the last part. Anyway, I write two posts about quince without explaining what the hell a quince is. I am willing to bet that the average reader of this blog (perhaps a contradiction in terms, I concede) already knows what a quince is, but I don't want anyone left behind.

    Fortunately, David Karp is, like, one of the best fruit detectives. In this piece for the LA Times, he spells out the past and present of the quince.

    I don't want to give anything away (spoiler: I'm about to give something away), but DAVID KARP GETS A QUINCE NAMED AFTER HIM and he is so bad-ass that he just tosses that off tangentially.

    If I ever get a fruit named after me, you are never hearing the end of it.

    Monday
    19Oct2009

    Blush

    It seems to me — and I could certainly be wrong — that the apples have more of a blush to them this year. Varieties such as the Mutsu and the Golden Delicious, which are ordinarily green and yellow respectively, can develop a blush. 

    But this year it seems more apples than ever are painted red — some of them with a faint, rosy tinge, and others with a striking, saturated blush.

    Evidently cool nights and sunlight stimulate red pigment in apples skins. That's discussed in this 10-page scientific paper.

    It could also be that these apples have just spent more time on the tree than usual. It is getting late in the season. 

    * * *

    There's a tiny new section on this web site: the gallery.

    Friday
    09Oct2009

    An embarrassment of apples

    It is a damp, gray day at the orchard.

    There is — somehow — a small basket of watermelons sitting by the cider mill, but mostly there are apples. Stacks of them. Bins of them. Trees full of them.

    I'm at the orchard because Peter's not. He's out of town.

    Do you realize that this is my chance to reshape this whole operation in my own, weird image? Well, at least until Tuesday. Peter's only gone three days.

    It's a good bit of extra work for me to do Saturday's market without Peter. On Wednesday, I said to him,"I think on Saturday I'll just back the truck up onto the grass and sell off the back." This is a recurring fantasy.

    Peter wasn't fazed.

    "Eh, " he said. "What I don't know won't hurt me."

    Today I'm going to get a new headlight for the truck, sort through some restaurant orders to pack, get supplies ready for our two markets tomorrow, no doubt talk to Lupe about a few things, and maybe snap a few photos.

    I don't pick any fruit that I don't eat. I don't press cider. I don't pick weeds.

    People always ask me what I do while I'm on the farm. 

    I really have no idea.

    I just know sometimes it takes all day.

    Saturday
    03Oct2009

    Not just any fruit crisp

    I turned to Stresscake: "I want to make an apple dessert, but not a pie or a tart. What am I making?"

    "There's a recipe in the Fannie Farmer Cookbook called 'Any Fruit Crisp.' "

    I took her advice.

    (She took her own advice as well, as you can see from her posting on the same subject written days before this one. I would have more shame about posting this myself, but ... well, I don't.) 

    "Any Fruit Crisp" seems to sell the recipe a bit short, so I have renamed the recipe below, along with offering several variations.

    There is a special appeal to recipes that are not only so easy that you can throw them together with ingredients already on hand, but so straight-forward that they actually offer you the possibility of memorizing them.

    Not Just Any Fruit Crisp

    • 1 Wolf River apple, plus one Gala apple, peeled and sliced
      (or 4 cups peeled, sliced apple; or 4 cups of any fruit)
    • 1 cup flour
    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1 teaspoon baking powder
    • 1 egg, beaten
    • 1/4 pound butter, melted

    Butter an 8-inch baking dish. Place fruit in the dish. In a bowl, combine dry ingredients. Add the beaten egg and mix well with a fork or your fingertips, until the flour is dampened and in small clumps. Scatter the flour mixture on top of the fruit. Drizzle the melted butter evenly over the top. Bake in a 375-degree oven for 25-30 minutes. Serves 6. Or 4. Or 2.

    Variation 1:

    Stresscake posts a pear and apple variation.

    Variation 2:

    Cut back the sugar to 3/4 cup, use white whole wheat flour (often available at Trader Joe's or Whole Foods) for a portion or all of the flour, and shave off a couple tablespoons of butter. (A quarter pound of butter is 8 tablespoons, or one stick. So leaving out two tablespoons means using three-quarters of a stick of butter.)

    I'm not butterphobic, but the first time I made this, I was eating it out of the baking dish when I got to the end and was smacking my lips over the parts that were stuck to the bottom. "Wow! This part is great," I thought, followed immediately by "Wow! This part is butter," followed immediately by a mental image of a rotund little man shoving a stick of butter into his mouth and squealing with delight.

    Which is as interesting a segue as any into saying that the next time I make this, I will be shredding a bit of cheddar into the topping.

    Thursday
    01Oct2009

    Apples and sympathy, but mostly apples

    That's smoked wild salmon on a baguette with thinly sliced Valstar apple. I drizzled it with olive oil.

    * * * 

    "There's this one woman who comes all the time and tells me about her whole family."

    This was my co-worker talking to Peter.

    Peter's response?

    "Send 'em to Dan."

    "Because she comes all the time and she just won't stop."

    "Yeah, send 'em to Dan."

    "That's what I've started doing at the Lincoln Square market. Sometimes I'll just send them to Dan."

    "Yeah. People with long stories? Weird medical problems? Send 'em to Dan. Those sound like 'Dan Specials' to me."

    Thanks, Peter. 

    This has come up before.

    I think he was joking.

    But it would certainly explain a lot.

    * * * 

    "HOW MUCH APPLES?"

    "Those are five dollars."

    "WHY FIVE DOLLARS?"

    "Why five dollars?" I shrugged. "Because that's what the apples cost."

    He didn't stick his tongue out at me. (That happened the next day. Hey, thanks for keeping it classy, lady!)

    But back to the man.

    A customer was watching this with a slight smirk and a look of disbelief.

    "Do you get that all day?"

    "I do."

    "I go to a lot of farmers markets," he said. "And it's way worse at this one. Everybody wants to haggle over everything! I see it all the time."

    "I know . . . it's true. It's not just you; it is way worse at this one."

    He gave me some sympathy and bought some Mutsu apples. 

    I gave him his change — and a bonus Valstar apple.

    The Valstar is my favorite apple at the moment — crunchy, juicy and sweet, but with a brightness to it that rescues it from being cloying.

    * * * 

    "Are you cold?" The chef had a jacket on. I was in a sweatshirt.

    "Eh, I'm all right," I told her. "It was worse yesterday."

    "Wow. Nothing bothers you does it?"

    "Excuse me?"

    "Nothing bothers you. You're always so nonchalant."

    "Um ..."

    My name is Dan.

    Have we met?