Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    2009 Categories
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    Friday
    18Sep2009

    Concord grape jam, and no I don't have a problem, thank you very much

    Last weekend, I came into some grapes. 

    Unfortunately, I rarely stumble upon just a little fruit. It comes in problematic quantities — which is how I know that one full lug of grapes fits snugly on the bottom shelf of my refrigerator and, making it especially tidy, still allows the door to close.

    This was a lot of grapes. And my concept of a lot of fruit is, I'm betting, quite different from your concept of a lot of fruit. And this was a lot of grapes.

    You would be surprised how few looks a man with a tub full of grapes garners on the sidewalks of Chicago as both the tray and the man are groaning under the weight of the grapes on the walk home.

    I was.

    Once home, I approached a fellow canner with a deal: You can have half these grapes if you give me some jam jars and promise not to judge me, in ascending order of importance.

    I made the trade and picked out the underripe fruit. Now I was down to 5 pounds of grapes. 

    Tedium is removing the skins from 5 pounds of grapes.

    The one thing that you absolutely do not want to think about when you are doing this is why you need to remove the skins first. Because the skins get whirred in the food processor with a cup of sugar and then, seconds later, tossed RIGHT INTO THE SAME PAN AS THE REST OF THE CRAP.

    Which, of course, is perfectly fine. Because I'm not bitter about it.

    After this, the grapes and the skins and the sugar get cooked down. Once the pulp has broken down, you pass the mixture though a food mill, a look of smug satisfaction coming to rest upon your face as you realize just how many times you have had occasion to use the food mill since you bought it, even though it seems like one of those things you would buy and then use once, and even though one of those occasions that you used the food mill was when you forced Bryan to pass two potatoes through the food mill to make mashed potatoes, which perhaps was overkill, but you don't want the food mill to be the sort of thing you buy and then don't use.

    Then the mixture gets cooked down. I cooked mine only to the point of a loose set. I ended up with seven jars of jam, which I crammed into my cupboard by stacking on top of other jars of jam. 

    The point of this story — there was a point? there was a story? — is that Wednesday when I took home some pears, Peter told me I was out of control. Well, I took home 10 pounds of pears on top of 35 pounds of plum tomatoes. And so that perhaps figured into his comment. But the tomatoes don't count because they're not fruit. Not culinarily, anyway. Point being, they don't count. No. Point being Peter is wrong, I think.

    Or not.

    Point being, I can stop anytime I want to.

    But I won't want to until November.

    Reader Comments (5)

    As that fellow canner that made the trade, how the hell did I end up with 9lbs? Damn you! Because I have the same exact problem ... or is it a sickness? ... that you do. Too much canning! 6 batches in the last week. Make it stop. Slipping the skins off an endless pile of grapes stunk but I think I know why - the food processor breaks down the skins for additional flavor and color. If we whirled the whole grape, there's a chance that the pips would have been crushed/broken, releasing bitter tannins and nasty bits into the mixture that would have passed through the food mill. At least that's what I'm telling myself; seems logical no? Tasty stuff in the end though, don't you think? Jury's still out on my pear butter though.

    18 September 2009 | Unregistered Commenterstresscake

    I had a lot of very underripe fruit in my bin, which I composted. (I did use some of the less-underripe ones.) So that accounts for a few pounds.

    And, yes, your explanation does make sense.

    In the end, it is good — nice and tangy and sweet and grapey. It's possibly even worth it.

    18 September 2009 | Registered CommenterDan

    I can't imagine the temptation of a fruit farm and a canning/preserving obsession. I got 15# off my own little vine and that was enough to contend with. Am I the only one that didn't know white grapes beget purple jelly?

    18 September 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJennifer

    I have 2 grape vines at home (backyard in Chicago). Last year I got 2 grapes. This year I have one actual bunch on the other vine (though they are on the neighbor's side of the fence and they may grab them first). Jennifer, how old are your vines that gave you 15#?

    22 September 2009 | Unregistered Commenterleek

    I am so glad I am not the only one with a farmer's market/fruit farm and canning "un" obsession... I do not have a problem. Oh, and my friend has a ton of fruit trees and grape vines in her backyard as well - my husband is going to kill me when he gets home tomorrow, but concord grape juice here I come!!

    11 October 2009 | Unregistered CommenterJeaneane

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