Setting

  • The Markets: Any of the farmers markets in Chicago that I work throughout the week.
  • The Orchard (aka the Farm): 81 acres in Southwest Michigan, about 2.5 hours from Chicago.

 

Cast of characters

  • Peter: My boss and chief fruit slinger.
  • Lupe: Farm foreman. Lives at the orchard and directs the day-to-day agricultural labor.
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    2007 Categories
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    Friday
    01Jun2007

    "You look even less like a farmer than I do."

    My boss was talking to me. I was freshly slathered in sunscreen. A floppy hat covered my head. And he was right; I looked ridiculous.

    My boss, who owns the farm, isn't exactly a country mouse either. The farm is in rural Michigan, but he lives in Chicago. We had gotten up yesterday at the crack of dawn and driven from the city to the farm together.

    First order of business was planting melon seeds. In theory, the melons are supposed to germinate in the greenhouse and then be transplanted into the soil. But we were putting the seeds directly into the ground, something the seed packet said was "asking for trouble."

    The neat melon rows are covered in black plastic to help keep the soil warm. Every foot or so there was a small hole in the plastic. This is where the seeds went.

    Most of the melons had already been sprouted in the greenhouse first and then planted.

    Not only are there yellow watermelons and red watermelons planted, but also a yellow-and-red swirl watermelon that sounds beautiful. I can't wait to see it. But I'll have to; most of these melons probably won't start being ready for harvest until August.

    Strawberries are the first to come into season. But it also looks like we'll have to wait a week or so for them to start up in force. There were a few that looked nearly ready, but far more green ones.

    We're about three months away from seeing apples, but the fruit is already taking shape. These are the very beginnings of an apple, past the bud stage and heading toward something resembling the fruit we know.

    After the melons were planted, there was more glamorous work: washing the graffiti off the truck and loading coolers full of frozen cider from last fall.

    I got back to Chicago at 7pm. I parked the car and walked about six blocks home, passing young professionals in khakis and collared shirts talking on their cell phones and carrying their laptop bags.

    I was carrying my computer bag, too. But I was in dirty ripped jeans and a sweat-stained T-shirt.

    It was a full day, and exhausting. It's been a long time since I've been that tired. I'm still beat and sore.

    I'm working two markets in the city this weekend and then most likely spending all of next week on the farm.
    Wednesday
    06Jun2007

    I got to the farm late yesterday afternoon. I was really glad to see that the melons we seeded last week are already starting to sprout up. I was especially glad to see that the row my boss seeded and the row I seeded looked to be in equally good shape, because he would have given me endless crap if his row had turned out better.

    The biggest surprise for me was to see the cherry trees exploding with color. Row after row of beautiful green trees heavy with fruit. Most of the cherries are still yellow -- not ripe yet. But there are clusters that are quite red. I tried one. It was great.


    No. 1 on my list of things to do today: Organize the barn.

    Saturday
    09Jun2007

    "Listen, when you get back to the farm, tell Lupe he needs to irrigate the melons. And take care of the cucumber beetles."

    This was my boss talking. He liked to tell me to tell Lupe things because Lupe's English was a little shaky and my boss felt better if I conveyed the message in Spanish. Never mind that I was not here most of the time and things seemed to get done fine without me, that my Spanish and Lupe's Spanish were cut from different cloth, and that if I don't know what something is in English (cucumber beetle), the chances of my knowing how to say it in Spanish are slim.

    "Also, someone told me that leaving a radio playing overnight near the cherry trees will scare away the raccoons. So I think we should do that. Maybe use the stereo in the barn."

    I next saw Lupe several hours after I had returned from town.

    "Did you talk to Peter?" I asked him.

    "Yes."

    "And he told you about the melons and everything?"

    "Yes."

    My side of the conversation was taking place in Spanish. His monosyllabic answers were in English.

    "Peter also seems to think that putting a radio out in the middle of the cherry trees will deter the raccoons. Am I explaining myself?"

    "Yes." He was starting to smile.

    "So I was going to run some speaker wire from the stereo in the barn and just set up a speaker by the trees."

    "OK."

    "Does it seem like a good idea?"

    Lupe smiled and shrugged.

    "Well, it's just for one night. We'll try it. We'll see if it works."

    I wasn't getting much reaction out of him. So I tried again. "We'll try it, no?"

    "OK."

    A little while later, he caught me trying to pass the speaker wire out through the barn window toward the trees. One of his helpers was with him. "Eso es para chingar los raccoons?" he said. ("That's to fuck with the raccoons?") "Exactly," I said. He smiled.

    Lupe looked at me for a moment and then said: "Maybe a little radio with batteries? I have."

    I switched over to English. "Yes! That's a much better idea."

    He brought out his radio.

    I walked out to the trees and did a test run. I had a small audience as a few of Lupe's helpers looked on.

    It was still daylight. So there weren't exactly raccoons around anyway. Still, the radio did not seem to ATTRACT raccoons in broad daylight. Surely that was something.

    I walked back to the little group that was watching me. "I'll come out after dinner when it's starting to get dark and turn it on," I said. "But, Lupe, you have to turn it off in the morning. Because I'm out of here really early."

    "OK," he said.

    I smiled. They smiled. I shrugged.

    One of them spoke. "Maybe it'll work," he said. "Or maybe you'll wake up to an orchard of dancing raccoons."

    Thursday
    21Jun2007

    There are a lot of things to loathe about getting up at 5am for work, but it is great to watch the city wake up around me.

    In some ways, this year so far has been a cakewalk. I've been getting to work about 6am. Yesterday, reality set in: Now that we have more than just strawberries, 6am isn't early enough. Even with three of us there, we were still setting up when the market opened at 7am.

    So work will probably start closer to 5.30am from now on.

    I spent a lot of time Wednesday making sure people knew that it was probably the one and only day we would have strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and cherries at the same time.

    Upon hearing this, several people told me I was a good salesman. This is always sort of jarring for me to hear.

    "I'm really not trying to sell you anything," I usually say. And it's true. I guess it depends on what you mean by "sell," but I really can't see myself trying to persuade people to buy more fruit ... with the possible exception of jokey and self-consciously corny lines (like jumping in to say "yes" when a customer asks the person s/he is with if they should get more fruit).

    One woman came back half an hour after I sold her a pint of blueberries, a pint of cherries, a half-pint of raspberries and a pint of strawberries.

    "You're going to think I'm crazy," she said. "But I'd like to get a quart instead of a pint of strawberries."

    "Are you kidding? I'd think you were crazy if you didn't get more strawberries."

    "You're such a good salesman."

    "But I'm really not trying to sell you anything."

    "You just love your fruit, don't you?"

    * * *


    The most common question of the day was how to keep the fruit.

    For the raspberries, blueberries or strawberries, leave them on the counter, out of the sunlight, if you plan to eat them by the end of the day. Whatever is not eaten that day would do well on a plate in a single layer in the refrigerator -- this means the berries aren't crushing each other. Discard (read: eat) any berries that are crushed or bruised. Otherwise, they will leak onto the other berries. Moisture is a berry's enemy; it leads to mold. This also means that any berries you eat should be washed only just before you eat them, if you wash them at all.

    I can't tell you not to wash your fruit, but if you buy raspberries from a farmer you trust, you should consider not washing them. The water inevitably gets trapped in the cups of the berries, watering them down.

    Berries taste better at room temperature, so if you're going to eat previously refrigerated berries, take them out of the fridge an hour before you're going to eat them, if you think of it.


    Friday
    22Jun2007

    If you're a restaurant, you can place orders with us and we'll deliver. But sometimes chefs prefer to come to the market and pick up.

    I love getting a glimpse into the kitchens of the restaurants we sell to.

    On Wednesday I was helping a chef carry two flats of strawberries to her car. She works for a well-known restaurant named after its chef, whose last name could be, say, Galloper ... and whose first name is the diminutive of Charles.

    I can't say more.*

    Anyway, I asked her what she planned to do with the strawberries. She told me and then mentioned she had made some jasmine rice pudding.

    "Really?" I said. "I just made rice pudding ice cream."

    "Huh. Well, the other day we made jasmine rice pudding and put some on the anti-griddle. Do you know what that is?"

    I didn't.

    "It's like a griddle, but instead of being super hot, it's super cold. So the rice pudding froze instantly."

    Cool.

    * OK. FINE! She's the pastry chef at Charlie Trotter's. There. Are you happy?